Sandwiched between Russia to its north and Iran to the south, and with the neighbouring Caspian Sea towered over by mountains inland, it’s not surprising that Azerbaijan has a climate of contrasts and contradictions.

In simple terms, it’s cold in winter and can get very hot in summer. The capital, Baku, benefits from the moderating effect of the Caspian. Here, in the middle of winter, temperatures stay mostly above freezing, even in the depths of winter. However, a strong wind blowing across the water from Russia can often accentuate the chilly feel. Over the plains further inland, winter days can be still, grey and frosty, with snow flurries turning much heavier over the Caucasus mountain range, where the cold can be severe. But most days are dry.

Even in winter, southerly winds can bring warmth; and by April, temperatures are rising comfortably into the 20s Celsius on some days. Summer sees consistent heat, especially inland, when 40 Celsius is not uncommon. It can be a muggy heat, although a breeze from the Caspian has a tempering effect on Baku.

While summer brings fewer damp days than winter, the rain can come all at once, in the form of dramatic thunderstorms, especially inland. At least this can help to temporarily clear the insects and the humidity.

Early autumn brings a mellower warmth. It’s a good time to visit, before a more rapid decline in temperatures ensues from October to December, when the first frosts return to Baku.